I'm in Mendoza now, after spending far more time than I thought I would in Villa General Belgrano. The hostel I was staying at was really nice, very relaxed and a little ways outside of the town, and I just got stuck there.
Villa General Belgrano is a german-style village in the Sierras near Córdoba. By "german-style" village, I mean a place where all the buildings are done in Bavarian style architecture, where all the signs are carved wood, and where everyone makes a big deal out of the local chocolate and beer. I probably would have thought this was very weird if it hadn't been for a visit to Leavenworth, Washington with my mother and sister several years before. VGB is very much a tourist town, and easter weekend is perhaps its busiest time. The interesting thing about it was that all the tourists were from Argentina -- mostly Buenos Aires or Córdoba.
The hostel was about 10 minutes out of town, surrounded by trees. They had a big organic garden, and made their own jams, honey, dulce de leche, yogurt, etc., all of which made for a wonderful breakfast every morning. Lots of nice places to sit and talk, and beautiful wooden tables and benches throughout. They weren't sure if there would be space in the beds for me when I arrived, and I figured my tent and sleeping back could use some air anyway, so I camped outside at night.
This turned out to be another good test for my tent (Mountain Hardware Waypoint 1, for those that care), as it rained pretty much every night. The tent kept me and my stuff out of the rain, but without any wind there wasn't enough ventilation and I saw why single-wall tents aren't more popular. For Colorado, I think it's a great tent. For the pacific northwest, I'd probably look for something else. It finally cleared up on the last couple days there, so I got to take everything out and dry it before packing. I'm so spoiled. :)
I spent the first few days exploring around the town, and taking day hikes in the surrounding mountains. Probably more properly referred to as "hills", they seemed a mix of the foothills near Boulder, and the steeper mountains in California. There were a number of granite outcroppings to be found, which reminded me of the rocks I used to play on in Gold Hill as a little kid. The feeling was heightened when, on a day trip to a nearby town (La Cumbrecita), I found myself in a pine forest, with Amanitas mushrooms growing all around. Generally nice hiking, with nice wildflowers and lots of green vegetation.
The time spent in town was fun as well. It was a nice feeling to not stand out as a tourist, and if I looked like I knew where I was going or what I was doing, people would even ask me directions or questions. And I could provide a useful answer. A nice change. In the afternoons, the town put on a show in the central building. There were a number of different acts, mostly dance and different styles of live music. There was also a reenactment of the Easter story done in dance to upbeat music, which was enjoyable despite a rather violent crucifixion scene.
One of the highlights of the visit was the last night there -- Sunday night -- after most of the tourists had started home. The hostel was mostly empty and quiet, which was nice. I joined a group of arteseanos who had been staying at the hostel and selling their artwork at one of the arteseania fairs in celebrating a successful weekend. We had a big asado and ate good steaks and german sausage until we were full, and then we ate more. It was the first clear night since I arrived, dead calm with no wind, clouds, or moon. The stars were beautiful; it was a nice night for a fire. We made a big ol' white-man's fire, with flames leaping 12 - 15' in the air, and spent the rest of the night watching the flames and drinking maté.
The next day I took an afternoon bus back to Córdoba, and then another on to Mendoza.
I arrived in Córdoba yesterday morning, after a long bus ride from Iguazu falls. They only seats left on the bus were "cama total" seats -- nicer than first class seats on a plane -- so it was an expensive (though not that much more) but very comfortable bus ride. For the first six hours of the ride I had the downstairs of the bus all to myself. I felt like a little kid, being left home alone for the first time. I was free to do whatever I wanted and no one would scold me, but I couldn't figure out what I was that I wanted to do with my new-found freedom. So, I just sat and read my book.
Córdoba seems like a nice city, though it was completely closed down yesterday due to a national holiday. Yesterday was Malvinas day, which I guess is similar to veterans day in the states, but with a specific focus on the war over the malvinas (or the faulklands, as I knew them before coming here). The battle over those islands is still very much alive here. Near every border, you see a sign claiming them for Argentina.
I spent the day exploring the city, and wondering why everything was closed (I didn't find out until later that evening). Like Buenos Aires, Córdoba has a number of nice parks, and places to sit, though they seem to be smaller and fewer in number. That said, Córdoba seems like a much smaller and more livable city. Yesterday was another hot, humid day here, and just walking around was enough to leave me sweating and thirsty.
As I read more about the areas surrounding Córdoba, the mountains seemed more and more appealing, so I'm off to explore some of the smaller towns in the sierras (the central mountain range, still a good ways east of the andes) and maybe do some hiking, later today. My current thought is to try to make it up Cerro Champaquí. It's the tallest peak in the range, though it's not really all that tall, nor all that difficult. Still, it should be a nice break from the city.
This morning it's much cooler -- cloudy and overcast -- a nice change in the weather. I suspect that it will turn into rain, which I gather is much needed in this part of the country.
I've finally left Buenos Aires, and am back on the road again. I enjoyed my stay there and loved the city, but it was time to be moving again. I'm writing now from the city of Puerto Iguazu, some 1600km (I think) from Buenos Aires, near the famed Iguazu Falls.
Before heading up here, I decided that it would be a good idea to take care of all of the requirements to enter brazil while I was still in Buenos Aires, so that it wouldn't be an issue later in the trip. Doing this was really pretty boring, and I normally wouldn't mention it, but the only reason I had to go through anything at all was to educate Americans about the process, so I figure it's fair to pass all this on.
On the trip so far, I've had no problem crossing any border. I've not had to pay any sort of fee or get any visas. It's been nice. Going to Brazil, though, is a different story. Brazil requires from US citizens the same thing the US requires of them -- a visa, a $100 "processing fee", and a set of fingerprints and a photograph at the door. The result? What would have been a pleasurable day trip to the other side of the falls is now no longer worth it, unless you're planning on spending more time in Brazil anyway. I was, so I figured it was worth the trouble of getting a visa before I came up here.
The Brazilian consulate in Buenos Aires is open from 10am to 1pm, weekdays. I showed up around noon, leaving me not too much of this three hour window. I completed my paperwork to the best of my ability, though I didn't have an address of where I was staying in Brazil, because, at this point, I wasn't even planning on staying in Brazil. After waiting in line for a while, I was told that I needed one to complete the form. I left to find the address on the other side of the border, and by the time I got back they were closed. *sigh*
Back the next day at the start of the day. Fill out the form again, with the address. Wait in line again, turned over the form, a photo of me, and my passport. Walk down the street to the bank that the consulate works with, and pay my $100 plus some other fees. The next day, I am to return between 4 and 5 pm to collect my passport.
This process is not difficult, but it did require being in a major city for 2 days (3 for me) and being free at specific hours during the middle of the day. Similarly, the border crossing itself, requiring fingerprints and photos, is not difficult but it is time consuming.
I can't claim to know enough about the reasons for implementing this program in the US, or weather or not it is actually useful, but I can say that it does make travel around the world more difficult. It sounds like my entry into Brazil was much, much easier than most people's entry to the US, and it seems like the results of the US program (US-VISIT) should be very obvious in order to justify the inconvenience.
Okay, rant over.
I went to sleep on the bus as it left Buenos Aires, and woke up a number of hours later to sunrise over lush, green vegetation. This was the sub-tropical rain forest. Green, wet, and warm. I had read that yerba maté farms lined the roads, but I wasn't sure what one would look like, so I really can't say if I saw them or not. The smaller towns and cities in the north all have a similar feel to them, through the window of a bus. Red stones pave the bumpy roads. The buildings are largely cement or stucco with large, painted signs on the walls. Old automobiles, palm trees, and families fill the shoulders and sidewalks.
It wasn't until I got off the bus in Puerto Iguazu that it struck me how warm and humid it was. High-90s, and quite humid (The bus went by a bank).
I made my way into Brazil to see the falls from that side first. It was strange to hear Portuguese, and I felt awkward any time I had to ask any sort of question. I didn't know what language to use, or how to begin. I hadn't even taken the time to read the "guide to Portuguese" that takes up two pages of my guide book. In the end though, everyone in Foz do Iguaçu spoke Spanish and/or English (no surprise there) and I made it to the park without any trouble.
On the crossing there, the bus driver didn't stop at the Brazilian immigration office, which was interesting. I wanted to get my visa validated, though -- had to use it within 90 days of getting it -- so I got out on the way back and spent a while trying to explain to a frustrated Brazilian customs worker that I wanted to enter the country, then turn around and leave. But in the end, that's just what I did. The next day, I checked out the falls from Argentina.
Both parks, the argentine and Brazilian, are quite nice. Lots of rain forest, and shaded trails (wide and paved) leading through it to the falls. The falls themselves are impressive -- like something out of an illustrated children's book. They just don't seem real. Green jungle and darker green and foamy white river combine with black and red basalt cliffs to form paradise.
Of course, this paradise is punctuated by the persistent chop of helicopter blades, the chatter of other people, and the whine of boat engines taking load after load of people to the base of the falls for a shower. I must admit, though, that as much as I wish the boats weren't there, it was a fun and impressive way to see the falls.
Whenever I see a waterfall, I'm amazed that it can keep running. I can explain the way the water cycle works (thanks, grade school science!) but to see it in action I always find myself in awe. The falls are amazing as a snapshot, but its their continuity -- the wind and the crash and the spray that continues 24 hours a day indefinitely -- that really amazes me.
Tomorrow I'm heading back south, hopefully (no bus ticket yet). I'm planning on going to Cordoba for a bit, before heading to Mendoza.
I'm still planning on finding a map to mark up for you guys, but I haven't done it yet. Sorry!